The first impression of Jaén province is its kilometres upon kilometres of shimmering olive trees stretching from one horizon to the other. The health-giving properties of olive oil are well documented and visitors are well advised to buy a bottle of “Virgen Extra” – once you’ve tried this on your salad, you’ll never want anything else! For golfers, Jaén province only has the nine-hole La Garza course in Linares municipality, but for nature-lovers and history buffs it is an exceptional destination, home to Spain’s largest protected area. This is the 214,300-hectare Sierra de Cazorla, Segura and Las Villas nature park, declared a Biosphere Preserve and Special Protection Zone for Birds by the European Union. Not surprisingly it is one of the most sought-after destinations for nature tourism. Other protected areas include the Sierra de Andujar mountains, the Sierra Mágina and Despeñaperros, whose deep gorges and abrupt mountain scenery are regarded by many (especially motorists driving south from Madrid), as the authentic northern boundary of Andalucía. The city of Jaén dates to Palaeolithic times. It stands on the flank of the Santa Catalina hill, on top of which is a renovated fortress which today serves as a Parador, part of the state-owned hotel chain. Other places of interest are the cathedral, a Renaissance masterpiece by Vandelvira and the Baths of Ali under the Palace of Villardompardo. Nearby are the mediaeval towns of Úbeda and Baeza, where visitors can truly feel they have stepped back centuries in time.